Endo Shoten, Kyoto, Japan: Under-the-radar bookstore izakaya

An independent bookstore, Endo Shoten, is by far the most under-the-radar izakaya restaurant in Kyoto City. The izakaya offers ultimate Japanese comfort food with a local twist and – of course – paper books.

For those who wonder what izakaya means, izakaya is a quintessential type of restaurant in Japan. Pubs of the UK, diners of the US, izakaya is just about those of Japan.

Nowadays in Japan (or at least in Kyoto City), off-beat izakayas are all the rage thanks (primarily) to Twitter and Instagram. SNS-optimized, off-beat “concept” izakayas seem to have all been happily excavated. It seems to be impossible to hide anymore.

But some still do (not that they shy away from business); Endo Shoten has managed to keep itself under-the-radar. The reason is clear; because Endo Shoten is technically a bookstore that happens to serve authentic Japanese comfort food like an izakaya. FYI: Endo Shoten means “Endo Bookstore” in Japanese (Endo is a Japanese family name).

Since Endo Shoten is a legitimate izakaya restaurant, it has menus. They look like the perfect curations of Japanese comfort foods and drinks. To my eyes, these are rare documents because, I assume, only the native Japanese can write and compile them this way. Why can’t I call them “edible storytellings” except for the fact that I don’t eat papers (yet).

And here comes a beer.

Tofu and a soy sauce bottle.

Potato salad.

The first arrivals, a tofu and a potato salad, were cold dishes. The tofu explained the archetype of Japanese garnishes such as scallions, bonito flakes, and a teaspoonful of grated ginger. A trickle of soy sauce whose bottle accompanied the tofu as a “help yourself” condiment perfected the dish. The potato salad was, I assume, a reasonable collage of ready-made ingredients: mayonnaise-flavored mashed potato, a mix of shredded and sliced vegetables, a Thousand Island dressing, and discreet flecks of black peppers. Divine combinations.

Deep-fried ham katsu.

Dashimaki omelet.

Grilled Kyoto Manganji peppers.

Secondly arrived, almost-main appetizers proved the skills of Endo Shoten. A surprisingly thick and satisfyingly crispy deep-fried ham-katsu was tasty and addictive. An umami-boosted Japanese dashimaki omelet was executed professionally (to make a dashimaki omelet, pour beaten eggs on a pan, make a sheet of the eggs, and roll it to a bar size: labor-intensive). Grilled Kyoto Manganji peppers catered me to harken back to where I was eating: Kyoto.

Stir-fried yakisoba noodle with a Worcestershire sauce.

French fries à la izakaya.

Supreme home cooking, was what I felt and appreciated at Endo Shoten. Savouring ultra local Japanese items in a dining room watching a live stream Japanese baseball game, which I know nothing about, was oddly more authentically Japanese than my Japanese house. I guess this is what Japanese expats would die for.

A handwritten drink menu on a bookshelf at the entrance. *The books are also on offer.

7/10

Endo Shoten | 33 Higashikujo Kitakarasumacho, Minami Ward, Kyoto, 〒601-8017, Japan

Tofu: ¥200 / $1.50 / £1.30 / €1.40
Potato salad: ¥200 / $1.50 / £1.30 / €1.40
Deep-fried ham katsu: ¥220 / $1.70 / £1.70 / €1.60
Dashimaki omelet: ¥280 / $2.20 / £1.80 / €2
Grilled Kyoto Manganji peppers: ¥230 / $1.80 / £1.40 / €1.60
Stir-fried yakisoba noodle: ¥370 / $2.80 / £2.30 / €2.60
French fries: ¥220 / $1.70 / £1.70 / €1.60
Small beer: ¥250 / $1.90 / £1.60 / €1.80

Endo Shoten | 33 Higashikujo Kitakarasumacho, Minami Ward, Kyoto, 〒601-8017, Japan

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Asian Japanese queer omnivore native to Kyoto. →Bio | @sushisandwich81