Hokodo (放香堂) is a Kyoto-based tea company that opened Japan’s first cafe Hokodo Coffee (放香堂加琲) in Kobe, Hyogo in 1878 (Meiji 11 in Japanese regnal year). In 2023, inside Tominokoji Rest Area (富小路休憩所) at the Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所), Hokodo Coffee ascended the rest area.
The Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所).
At Hokodo Coffee’s entrance.
Hokodo Coffee.
Inside Hokodo Coffee has a nonchalant, Japanese retro kissaten (喫茶店) cafe vibe. Relaxing generic piano tunes were being played in the coffee-aroma-wafting air. Seemingly local university students were playing tennis outside the window, which reminded me of a story that this area used to be a cool hang-out for local queer men before the arrival of iPhone apps. It was somehow precious to see people still playing with balls at the tennis court to this day.
Hokodo Coffee’s menu.
Hokodo Coffee’s souvenirs.
I ordered Hokodo Coffee’s signature item “Meiji fukkoku blend ishiusubiki hot coffee Rintaro (明治復刻ブレンド 石臼挽き ホットコーヒー麟太郎)”. In other words, Stone-grinded Indian coffee made in a French press. I’m the kind of person who doesn’t mind consuming a queerly fragrant, 100 yen / $0.70 Japanese coffee can. But even to me, Hokodo Coffee’s quality was obvious: The signature coffee tasted notably bean-y and earthy. It was powerful in a way that it reaffirmed the fact that coffee is made of beans. That made me fancy a taco (they had a hotdog instead).
Meiji fukkoku blend ishiusubiki hot coffee Rintaro (明治復刻ブレンド 石臼挽き ホットコーヒー麟太郎). 500 yen / $3.80.
Hokodo Coffee (放香堂加琲) | 3 Kyotogyoen, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto, 〒602-0881, Japan
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