Who knew a lumber supplier could supply exquisite Japanese seafood? It’s so Kyoto.
In Kyoto, being understated seems to be the key to stay cool as hot eateries. What an oxymoron. Some have cool store signs that say nothing. Some don’t have signs. Some don’t even open.
I don’t even know how to win this game. It’s not only once or twice that I ended up seeing the word “closed” at the entrance door of an eatery that looks just as ordinary as my house. One thing for sure is that such understated eateries are winning the game.
The storefront of Ikura Mokuzai.
The entrance of Ikura Mokuzai says “sake/酒” in Japanese.
Ikura Mokuzai is considered one of them. Besides the fact that it says “lumber supplier / mokuzai(木材)” in its name, Ikura Mokuzai is still, relatively customer friendly. Thanks to its noren-curtain at the entrance pronouncing the big letter “sake /酒” in Japanese, it successfully comes out that they is an openly open izakaya.
A food menu, left, a drink menu, right.
Beautifully composed passages on the food menu state the authentic Japanese izakaya repertoire concocted with downright Japanese comfort food such as Marushin hamburg and Toyouke tofu. I have to concede that there’s no way an eatery with such menus could fail.
Classic Japanese potato salad with a chip of Pringles on top. Pleasantly salty, light on mayonnaise, and insanely good. 90 yen / $0.70.
A whole cucumber with vinegar. In other words, Ikura Mokuzai’s rendition of Japanese “sunomono / 酢の物” cucumber salad. 450 yen / $3.50.
Pike eel (hamo) tempura with salt and Japanese sansho pepper. Exquisite. 1200 yen / $9.20.
Grilled mackerel (“dry-aged, soy sauce marinated mackerel” on the menu) came in two pieces. This golden mackerel was fair enough to make me believe that alchemy exists. 850 ten / $6.50.
My grilled mackerel (on the left) being grilled at a patio.
The patio and some patio tables.
My patio table says “please drink quietly” in the vernacular.
So be it. A glass of mirin umeshu (Japanese plum liqueur with a twist of mirin rice wine). 600 yen / $4.60.
At Ikura Mokuzai, I savored virtuosity. I have to concede that it’s one of the best izakayas in Kyoto and the absolute best lumber supplier in Japan. Who knew such an understated establishment was best at seafood? It’s so Kyoto.
P.S. Ikura Mokuzai’s bathroom speaks its whimsical mind of syncretism. I’m sure they has wood.
Ikura Mokuzai | 77 Yabunouchicho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto, 〒602-8041, Japan
Potato salad: ¥90 / $0.70 / £0.60 / €0.60
Whole cucumber salad: ¥450 / $3.50 / £2.80 / €3
Pike eel tempura: ¥1200 / $9.20 / £7.50 / €8
Grilled mackerel: ¥850 / $6.50 / £5.30 / €5.70
Mirin umeshu: ¥600 / $4.60 / £3.80 / €4.30
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Ikura Mokuzai | 77 Yabunouchicho, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto, 〒602-8041, Japan