Mo-an, Kyoto: Local legend Japanese cafe in mountain hideaway

Atop a Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke-esque mountain is Japan’s Cultural Heritage site also known as Mo-an, the Japanese cafe. I took off my shoes and savoured the space and French South Asian Japanese cafe food.

Japanese cafes (cafes that look obviously Japanese) are always all the rage even among the Japanese, especially in Kyoto. Since Kyoto is considered a city of history that used to be the capital of Japan (794 – 1869), “Japanese cafes” in Kyoto never fail to entertain people with high expectations.

The exterior of Mo-an.

Mo-an in mighty Sakyo Ward in Kyoto is a frequently heard, locally famous Japanese cafe that seems to reign at the top of its game. If not, it’s on the top of a mountain.

Atop sacred Mount Yoshida is Japan’s Cultural Heritage site (ex-Shigejiro Tanikawa’s cafe) also known as Mo-an. Build circa 1912, the property was owned by a then amateur tea master Shigejiro Tanikawa who is the founder of an existing company Tanigawa Unyu Soko.

Heading to Mo-an in the mountain.

Seeing Mo-an.

Arriving at Mo-an. (The board says “Mo-an/茂庵” in Japanese.)

15-minute semi-serious trekking on the Hayao Miyazaki’s Princess Mononoke-esque mountain took me to the killer facade of Mo-an, which actually killed my feet in my fancy schmancy Adidas partially due to sudden heavy rain. Mo-an could’ve been dead if I was Carrie Bradshaw.

Bye bye shoes.

Going upstairs.

Arriving at the dining room of Mo-an.

Happily taking off the shoes as one should in Japan, I climbed up to the second floor which is the dining room with killer views. The interior was unpretentious. The atmosphere was phenomenal. The whole thing reminded me of lodges at a seriously local 21+ male-only campsite in New Hampshire. I had a feeling that I was obviously not in Kansas anymore. This is Kyoto. And Mo-an certainly had a special vibe.

Mo-an’s food menu.

Moan’s specials: Taco rice, top, American cherry sandwich with mascarpone, bottom.




Food items on the menus were Japanese cafe food inspired by North American cuisine, French cuisine, South Asian cuisine, and Western Asian cuisine. “Foreign food” in Japanese might sound appropriate.

Tandoori chicken with paprika salad in pita bread. 900 yen / $6.90 including 3 side dishes.

Chilled potato pottage.

Grated carrot salad.

Mustard broccoli salad.

Everything I ate here was tasty. The tandoori chicken was like an Indian Japanese chicken curry with beans, which was delicious. I enjoyed the whole experience. I think it’s reasonable to view this place as a cafe (it is legitimately a cafe).

Sadly, Mo-an is going to end its journey for good on 14th August in 2022 after 21 years of the long run. The legend definitely deserves some moans.

A view on my way back.

7/10

Mo-an | 8 Yoshidakaguraokacho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 〒606-8311, Japan

Tandoori chicken pita sandwich plate: ¥900 / $6.90 / £5.60 / €6.40

Website | Menu

Mo-an | 8 Yoshidakaguraokacho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto, 〒606-8311, Japan

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About sushisandwich81 128 Articles
Asian Japanese queer omnivore native to Kyoto. →Bio | @sushisandwich81