Tokyo’s Shinjuku Nichome (新宿二丁目) is considered one of the biggest gay districts in the world. It’s definitely Japan’s biggest gay district and probably the only one that doesn’t attempt to hide in Japan. Shinjuku Nichome is so gay that it’s becoming more hetero-friendly, which makes some Japanese gay traditionalists feel queer.
The iconic rainbow Japanese torii gate at AiiRO CAFE in Shinjuku Nichome.
Regardless of gender and sexuality, people need to eat (food). It somehow feels right to eat soba (noodles made from buckwheat) – which is as popular/important as sushi – in Japan like eating pizzas and tacos in the US.
Located right smack in the middle of Shinjuku Nichome, it seems impossible for Rakuan (手打ちそば処 楽庵 / Teuchisoba Rakuan) not to be found and savored by gay people. Rakuan’s reputation is good enough to attract curious straight people who are cruising for good soba.
The storefront of Rakuan.
Inside Rakuan.
It was before midnight when I visited Rakuan. There was a group of seemingly heterosexual business persons talking about a coworker. “He is not doing well at work because he has a hard time at home. Let’s not stress him at the office.” It just sounded so incredibly inclusive.
Seiro soba with conger eel tempura (穴子天せいろ). 1750 yen / $13.40.
The texture of the soba noodles.
Greeneye tempura (メヒカリの唐揚げ). 800 yen / $6.10.
Rakuan’s menus.
Rakuan’s soba pulled me back from the queer conversation. The chilled soba’s texture was pleasantly resilient. The tempura was ethereally crisp. I didn’t expect such craftsmanship at a casual soba restaurant in a gayborhood at midnight. Rakuan caught me off guard.
Rakuan’s signboard says “hand made soba restaurant (手打ちそば処 / teuchisobadokoro)”.
Rakuan (手打ちそば処 楽庵) | 2 Chome−13−10, Shinjuku, Shinjuku City, Tokyo, 〒160-0022, Japan
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